Inherited a collection? Downsizing? I'll come to you, go through it with you, and tell you what it's actually worth — free, and with no obligation.

Who you're calling
I'm Matt, a 23-year Air Force veteran and the owner of LFG Collectibles here in Santa Rosa. I've been buying sports cards and memorabilia since 2020, and I've traveled all over the country looking at collections — so I've seen most of what's out there, and I can usually tell you quickly whether what you've got is ordinary or something genuinely worth money.
If you've recently come across some old sports cards, let me help you figure out what you have. There's no cost for information.
Most people who call have just inherited boxes they don't understand and don't want to get taken advantage of. I'll show you the recent sales I'm pricing against, explain what's driving the number, and answer whatever you want to ask. You're dealing with me the whole way — nobody hands you off to anyone. And if I'm not the right buyer for something, I'll tell you, and point you somewhere better.
Simple process
Snap a picture of what you've got. I'll tell you the same day whether it's worth a closer look — no charge either way.
Anywhere in Sonoma County, usually within a day or two. We go through it together at your kitchen table, or somewhere public if you'd rather.
If we agree on a price, I pay that day. If we don't, no hard feelings and no pressure — you still got a free appraisal out of it.
Before you clear out the garage
Where I go
Plus Napa, Solano, Marin and north. I travel further for larger collections.
Straight answers
I price against recent completed sales, then account for how long it takes to sell and the fees involved. I'll show you the comps I'm using. I generally pay between 50% and 75% of eventual retail — that spread covers the months and fees it takes to actually sell them. Anyone who won't explain their number is not someone you should sell to.
Base cards from those years usually aren't worth much — they were printed in enormous quantities. But there are real exceptions. 1990s insert cards — the shiny, foil, die-cut or numbered ones that fell a few per box — can be worth serious money, and they're the single most commonly overlooked thing I find in collections. Same goes for 1980s basketball and anything in exceptional condition. Send a photo before you throw anything out; it costs nothing to check.
Depends. In most cases, no. Grading starts at $80 per card and can run up to thousands depending on what's being graded. There's also a massive backlog at the grading companies right now. However, grading strategy is definitely something we can discuss.
Both. Single cards, boxes, binders, or an entire estate. There's no minimum — send a photo and I'll tell you either way.
Depends what you have. A handful of genuinely valuable cards will often do better on eBay if you have patience for photographing, listing, shipping and roughly 13% in fees. A few thousand cards where most are common? You'll spend months to net less than a dealer hands you in an afternoon. I'm happy to tell you which situation you're in.
Send me a photo and I'll tell you what you have — today.